North Coast 500 - Day 5 - Armadale to Thrumster

Day 5 was what my Mum would call a 'good washing day'. I looked out of my bedroom window to see the trees bowing to the bluster. But before embracing the elements - breakfast. A poached egg on toast served on a shiny oyster pink plate. Followed by a slice of crusty bread with the best homemade raspberry jam I've ever tasted. Detta waved me off from the drive, her big smile beaming as her hair danced an unruly jig.

I drove into the grey. The road at the top of Scotland was a little wider to the ones I'd become accustomed to on the west coast. The mountains far behind, I drove through gentle land, soft, rolling and peaty brown. A quick petrol stop in Thurso and then onto Dunnet Head. At the very tip of this peninsula is Easter Head, the most northerly point of mainland UK. In my mind, I thought there would be coach loads of folk all jostling to take selfies for their 10 seconds of being the most northerly person. I stepped out of the car looking for a gaggle of other folk, but I was alone. For twenty minutes I walked around the tip of the headland, being the most northern person.

This sheep with a nonchalant chew was a little bit further north, but I didn't quite fancy heading onto that cliff edge in the wind.

For a few minutes, I watched the gulls coming into land, battling the elements trying to find their nests tucked into the cliff face. There were a few aborted attempts, their little pink legs looked quite comical flailing behind them.

And then onto John O'Groats for lunch. From the cafe window, I watched a little scene developing. It seemed that folk were just driving into the car park, walking the short way to the famous sign with all the directions on it, taking a selfie, dropping fixed smiles, doing zips back up, and getting into the car once again.

I had seen a few photos of these colourful buildings when I was researching my trip. The self catering holiday apartments were radiant against the grey.

The harbour was deep and quiet compared to the force of The Pentland Firth outside. After a quick mooch around the Christmas shop (full on tinsle and festive tunes), I drove to the Stacks of Duncansby. From here you can see to Orkney. As I walked on the path, I came across the Geo of Sclaites which is a deep cleft cut into the cliffs, a popular spot for the nesting gulls. 

And then the view of Thirle Door and the jagged points of the sea stacks. I imagined how many landscape photographers had camped out here waiting for the most perfect light to capture the shot.

My journey down the East coast had started. I had mixed feelings. I was so chuffed with myself I'd come this far, and I was excited to be heading home to Suzi, but there was also a pang of sadness too. I'd turned the corner, heading south, and I knew my journey was well over half way.

Further on I saw a sign to Pier Head. I took a trip down to a little village and looked out across Sinclair's Bay. A few folk had decided to pin out their washing on this blowy Caitness day. Ackergill Castle stands in the background. I liked the way the jeans danced, sometimes alone, sometimes together.

And then onto Noss Head, the road long and straight like the runway at the adjacent Wick airport. I had just driven through the wonderfully named Staxigoe and Papigoe.

At Noss Head, I stretched my legs and walked along the peaty moor to Castle Sinclair Girnigoe - such an impressive structure, seemingly rising from the ocean, with a dramatic drawbridge across a ravine.

After a walk to the castle, I jumped back in the car to drive to my Airbnb for the evening. Up a long gravel drive with spring flowers on each side, I reached Thrumster House. Good old fashioned hospitality ensued! A note was stuck to the door for me to beep my horn when I arrived as they were out in the grounds. Islay and Catherine told me about the house, how it used to belong to the Innes clan, and they showed me photos of the last family members who lived there.

Inside, the breathtaking staircase, and the large fire crackled, the flames leaping in the grate. I was greeted by a big bounding dog, Bertie, he liked to keep an eye on things.

I sat with my cup of tea and planned the next day - (a beautiful blue day, lighthouses, beaches, and a chance meeting in a stone circle). More soon! If you'd like to read my days so far, you can just click on the previous posts links - thanks for following my trip!

North Coast 500 - Day 4 - Talmine to Armadale

When I was planning my North Coast 500 trip, I decided to have one day where I didn't travel too far, just in case I needed a rest day and a bit of time out from driving. So on Day 4, I travelled just around the headland to Armadale.

But just going back a little to the end of day 3. My super lovely hosts at The Woodlifeway Guest Room, Steve and Lea, chatted to me about their journey up to Talmine from down south, and the crofting way of life. They love the nature they have on their doorstep, the deer, golden and white tailed eagles, the seals on the sand bank just across from the croft, and otters. But they were most excited when telling me about their regular sightings of the northern lights! They showed me photos they had taken from the bedroom window just a few nights before. I have been lucky enough to see the northern lights, it was a few years ago now when we took a trip to Finnish Lapland for my Mum's 60th. That and the starling murmuration are certainly up there as the most spectacular things I've ever seen. But there was an added excitement to think I might see this colourful dance in the sky here in the UK. I set my tripod up and we stood still, me holding my breath, it felt like a stake out. Although there was a bank of thick cloud in a crucial area, I saw the unmistakable green tinges. Luminous streaks in the sky, a painter's first brush stroke on a blank canvas.

After this excitement, I took myself to bed and slept so soundly. I woke up quite early, at 5.30am. I pulled back the curtains and was greeted with that beautiful early morning hue. With the sun yet to rise, the snow on the mountains was a dark cobalt blue studded with sharp black rocks, the small crescent moon hung in the pale blue sky.

Even though I had gone to bed quite late, I wanted to get out to watch the sunrise. I pulled on my boots and walked to the edge of the croft. A few birds had started their chorus.

I stood and watched the ever developing light. From behind a little stone building to my left, a bright orange glow grew in intensity.

And then the very tops of Ben Hope and Ben Loyal were crowned in a pale pink which inched its way down the mountainside.

They looked like a child's perfect drawing of a mountain, with the definitive snow line. And then, from the grass, a skylark flew vertically into that big sky, its song swirled around the croft.

I came back inside, just as Steve was lighting the fire, the room filled with the smell of wood smoke. I ate my breakfast with Steve and Lea, and we chatted over homemade bread, flapjacks and bread pudding. As the fire crackled, we talked about music, and croft life.

I was fascinated to hear that every croft has rights to their own particular patch of peat. Peat rights! Lea makes beautiful household goods out of wood. She told me all about the provenance of the wood she uses. I bought Dad a new coaster for his cocoa mug made out of sea buckthorn. They like to have music on in the house. All About Eve came on, and Steve told me about his goth loving past, we realised we share a penchant for The Sisters Of Mercy. Guitars are strung up on the white walls. Maybe when I go back, I'll have a sing with them, I know there will be a next time. 

I left the croft and drove away with their smiling faces in my wing mirror. I stopped a little bit further along the road, at the side of the Kyle of Tongue to see if I could spot an otter, but not this time. I had seen the seals basking on the sand bank opposite the croft before I left, a new world discovered by the retreating tide.

I just pootled slowly along the coastline. I stopped at Farr Beach, Bettyhill and sat on the warm sand for a while. I just listened to the healing sound of the waves and watched the rush of sea water as it edged along the beach, leaving ripples carved into the sand and little piles of seaweed dotted on the shore.

The afternoon was a little disjointed as I tried to find something to eat (not such an easy feat at the top of Scotland). I also noticed (with a heavy heart), that I was leaving the mountains behind. Being in the mountains and driving in that terrain had been exciting and exhilarating. Now the roads were relatively flat, the landscape transformed right in front of me. 

I passed the wildlife carefully.

My next Airbnb was Armadale House. I parked on the gravel drive and was met by my smiling host Detta, rosy cheeks and silver hair. We drank tea and ate biscuits in the kitchen and then she took me on a tour of the house that is undergoing renovation work. The beautiful shutters on the window, the grand staircase, a stag's head adorning one of the walls, and that big green front door.

I walked around the garden, a big pile of peat was drying in the fading sun.

Even though I hadn't done too much, I was tired and went to bed, my morning of waking up at the croft in Talmine still with me. 

The North Coast 500 - Day 3 - Inchnadamph to Talmine

I mentioned in my last blog (you can read it here), that this day, day 3, was probably my favourite. The bright blue sky and surprisingly warm sunshine certainly were a factor. Day 3 was all about open roads, snowy mountain tops, deserted beaches and crystal blue waters.

I woke up early and had a bowl of porridge on my little veranda at my B n B, a breakfast with a view. Whilst I was away, I found a new love of porridge, something I'd always thought wasn't my thing. After breakfast, I took a short stroll down to Loch Assynt to the soundtrack of oyster catchers flying overhead.

I packed the Corsa up, it had that warm car smell when I climbed into the driver's seat. I felt the warmth of the sun through the glass as I drove along the side of Loch Assynt to Lochinver.

I had the most incredible mushroom, chestnut and red wine pie at Lochinver. When I posted about it on Instagram, quite a few people replied excitedly to say they'd tasted these gorgeous pies too! After finishing the last bite, I was happy to know that they have a Pies By Post business.

I followed the road around the coast, and for the most part I had it to myself. It could have been the day when I felt most alone, but the landscape seemed to hold me. Sometimes there were stretches of road that felt very remote, and just as I was wondering if I'd see anybody ever again, out popped a little house with smoke curling from its chimney.

My first stop was Clachtoll. Such a perfect little beach. Dunes, white sands and turquoise water. I had it to myself.

The only other person I saw on this stretch of road was the postman. I pulled into a couple of passing places to let him go by, but on the third time, he waved and gave me a smile of recognition. I don't know quite why, but it gave me a boost, another reaffirmation.

The ever changing landscape was exhilarating. From the beach, to driving along cliff tops, to mountain views. Little lochs peppered the brown land. As I looked at the map again, I realised that today I would be reaching the very top of Scotland. For some reason before I set out (and this is how my anxiety can manifest itself), I had pre-empted a wave of panic washing over me when I reached the most northerly point. The furthest I could possibly be away from home on this trip. Although the thought grumbled away a few times, I didn't give it air to breath, and I know it might not sound much written here, but it was a significant turning point for me.

Along the single track road towards Drumberg. The tarmac carved into the horizon. I stopped to look at the map just to check the next petrol stop as I'd noticed the gauge getting past the wrong side of the quarter full mark. As I stopped, I noticed two pairs of deer eyes staring at me from the side of the road, they chewed nonchalantly. Bored with me, they sauntered into the trees. The landscape made me feel incredibly small. Everything seemed to be oversized. The lochs, the mountains, even the sky.

After travelling along the single track road for the morning, I met the A road again to head further north. I joined a small herd of campervans and motorhomes with shiny bike racks and bright logos. Travelling further into North West Sutherland, I started to feel an urgency to reach the top of the country. I drove a little quicker than anticipated up to Durness, so I didn't make any stops or take any photos until I hit that little town. I had a welcome hot chocolate in Cocoa Mountain and let Suzi know I'd made it to the top. Just along from Durness is Smoo Cave. It's very impressive at 130 feet wide, 200 feet long and 50 feet wide. The river Allt Smoo falls from an 80 foot drop into sea water below. The sound was deafening, and again, nature made me feel incredibly small.

I drove towards my Airbnb in Talmine. The majestic Ben Hope caught the late afternoon light.

And then to the lovely croft that was home for the night, and that's exactly how it felt. I had such a warm welcome from my hosts Steve and Lea. A pair of slippers waited for me at the door, and inside, the log fire glowed in the burner. The perfect end to a long day's driving. I settled in for the night. I'll write more about this lovely croft in my next blog, about my glimpse of the northern lights, and a beautiful sunrise that started Day 4.